Flat construction is as Dollymama explained, sewing as many seams flat (ie not set in) as possible. The Hinds patterns I have investigated have nonconventional construction techniques and do not take advantage of flat constuction. I don't know how to be clearer, other than saying often times the outfit is assembled backwards, or not in a way a seamstress would go about making a garment. Usually this is most apparent in necklines, cuffs (if there are even real cuffs) and the back closures of a garment.

As far as over complicating techniques, I do have an example. In one of her patterns, a box pleated skirt for a brownie uniform is made with a silly series of various sized rectangles. Now box pleat folds are not exactly second nature for people, but the quality of a pleated garment, rather than a seamed garment is undeniable. I think it was an attempt to make the garment construction easier for the end user, but the result is cheap looking and actually requires more finishing work.

Professional/commmercial patterns are based on a series of basic garment shapes called slopers. Slopers take a series of measurements into account, not just a few and adjust the shape of a pattern to account for fabric drape, wear ease etc. A garment constructed from a sloper based pattern, rather than a hand drawn pattern, will not have a blocky look as long as you follow the fabric recommendation guidelines. In the doll world, that usually means not using a knit fabric with a pattern designed for a woven fabric.

Lining a bodice, rather than putting in a facing is not only easier, but a nice mark of quality. Hinds doesn't lead the end user wrong when she suggests or instructs to line over face.

So that's my piece. Some people have great enjoyment of Hinds patterns. I find them annoying. I highly recommend simplicity patterns as an alternative to her modern offerings. The same styles are available and often cheaper if you wait for a fabric store sale.

Nann